The Sweet Story of Israeli Desserts

Desserts are part of the ever-developing Israeli cuisine, and like everything else in Israel, desserts too have their story.

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Reprinted with permission from The Foods of Israel Today (Knopf).

Israelis dearly love their cake and coffee, and given the scarcity of ingredients and resources in the early years of the state, they always have exercised delightful ingenuity in creating desserts. When few people had the lux­ury of a home oven, they concocted sweets like a knacknick (salami) of cocoa, crushed vanilla wafers, wine, and nuts rolled together, refrigerated, and then cut into slices.

israeli dessertsA Passover cake made from layers of matzoh dipped in wine and slathered with chocolate and halvah (ground-sesame-seed candy) and chopped nuts reminded new immigrants of the Hungarian and Turkish layered desserts of their childhoods. During zena, the austerity period in the late 1940s and early 1950s, cooks often substituted peanuts for the more costly walnuts and almonds in their tortes, with powdered eggs replacing fresh eggs in delicacies like cream puffs.

Baking in the Communal Oven

In the late 19th century, traditional cakes often were brought to a communal oven. "A public oven is built not far from the synagogue," wrote Hannah Barnett Trager, an English visitor to Palestine. "It is very large, and each family sends cakes in its own tins to be baked in it. Generally about half a dozen tins are carried by each boy. Nothing I have seen before can be compared with the many kinds of delicious cakes and stuffed monkeys (English Jewish almond pastries) that are seen here. My mouth waters even when I think of the delicious strudels filled with sesames and plenty of raisins and shiros!"

In those days, the oven meant more than a place to bake cakes. "There is probably not a thing that has hap­pened in Jerusalem during the last two months that is not discussed around the public oven while people are waiting for their cake tins; and, as everyone wants to talk rather than to listen, the noise is like the buzz in a factory," wrote Mrs. Trager.

Then came the wunderpot, also called the wunderkucher. Nobody seems to know the exact origin of this German covered Bundt pan created in the 1920s, but it was a miraculous solution for home bakers with no oven and no steady supply of fuel or reliable electricity, because the cake could be baked over a propane burner. The batter would be poured into the Bundt pan, covered with a metal lid with holes around the sides, and put on a plate which covered the p'tiliah (propane burner), so as not to burn the bottom of the cake. "We would even make yeast doughs in our wunderpot," recalled Dalia Carmel, who grew up in Jerusalem. "Because of the cross-ventilation in our apartment and the fragility of the wunder­pot, my mother made me stop running and keep the doors closed when a cake was baking. Sometimes I felt like the wunderpot was a live person that you couldn't disturb."

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Joan Nathan

Joan Nathan is the author of several cookbooks, contributes articles on international ethnic food and special holiday features to The New York Times, Food Arts, Gourmet, and the B'nai B'rith International Jewish Monthly. Visit her website here.