Jerusalem kugel, or “kugel Yerushalmi,” is one of those dishes that doesn’t ask for your approval. It just is. At first glance, it looks like dessert: dark, glossy noodles bound by caramel. But the first bite delivers something far more complicated. Sweetness chased by heat. Soft noodles with a surprisingly firm crust. A peppery tingle that lingers long after the last bite. It’s a dish that speaks in contradictions and, somehow, they all work.
This distinctive kugel developed in the nineteenth century among the Ashkenazi Hasidic community in Jerusalem. The earliest wave of Ashkenazi immigrants arrived in the late 1700s, bringing with them their Eastern European culinary traditions. But it was in the alleyways of Mea Shearim that the kugel they knew — soft, sweet, oven-baked — was transformed into something uniquely Jerusalemite.
In “Sanctity of the Table,” Rabbi Aaron Roth of Mea Shearim, one of the most revered Hasidic leaders of the 20th century, elevated kugel from beloved tradition to sacred obligation. He declared that kugel is the one food all Jews eat, a single dish in service of the one God. So central was its role, he wrote, that any Jew in Israel who does not eat kugel on Shabbat should be investigated for heresy. While it may look humble, some rabbis believed kugel held mystical powers. The Seer of Lublin taught that just as one’s deeds are weighed in the heavenly courts, so, too, is the kugel eaten on Shabbat. Other rabbis taught that kugel corresponded to the sefirah of Yesod, the foundation of divine energy, and that eating it could sweeten heavenly judgments, rectify a person’s soul and draw down blessings for the week to come.
The Jerusalem-based Ashkenazim created a kugel hybrid: part sweet, part savory. Until this point, kugel was either one or the other, never both. Influenced by local Middle Eastern cooking techniques that involved slow-cooking and sugar syrups, they started caramelizing the sugar deliberately. Inspired by Sephardic neighbors and their bold use of spice, black pepper entered the picture. A lot of it. The result was unlike any kugel before: deeply caramelized, unapologetically sweet and punctuated by the sharp heat of freshly ground pepper in every bite. This is a kugel built for Shabbat: It is designed to sit on a hot plate for hours, growing darker, stickier and more intensely flavored with time.
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I’m not here to modernize it. Just to help you nail it. This is kugel as it was meant to be: slow-roasted, peppery, nostalgic and entirely its own thing.
Notes:
- My caramel ratio leans a little less sweet than some traditional recipes, which lets the pepper shine.
- This recipe uses 12 oz (340 g) noodles, a more home-friendly yield. Most classic recipes scale up to 1 lb (450 g) for a crowd, but this one’s perfect for sharing at your own table.
- You’ll need a 9-inch round baking pan (2-3 inches deep) or 8×8-inch square pan.
This article was produced as part of The Nosher’s Jewish Food Fellows Program, which aims to diversify the voices telling Jewish food stories in media spaces.
Jerusalem Kugel (Kugel Yerushalmi)
This recipe for Jerusalem kugel captures the dish in its truest form: slow-cooked noodles caramelized to a glossy sweetness.
- Total Time: 1 hour 30 minutes-8 hours 30 minutes
- Yield: Serves 8 – 10
Ingredients
- 12 oz (340 g) thin egg noodles (preferably vermicelli)
- ¾ cup (180 ml) neutral oil, like vegetable or grapeseed + more for greasing the pan
- 1 ¼ cups (250 g) granulated sugar
- 4 large eggs, lightly beaten
- 1 ½ tsp kosher salt + more for boiling noodles
- 2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
- ½ tsp cinnamon (optional but traditional in some families)
- pickles, to serve
Instructions
- Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Grease a 9-inch round or square baking dish with oil, or line with parchment paper for easier removal.
- Cook the noodles: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add noodles and cook according to instructions until fully soft. Drain well and transfer to a large bowl. Let cool slightly.
- Make the caramel: In a small saucepan, combine the sugar and oil. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 8-10 minutes until the sugar has fully dissolved and turns a deep amber color.
- Combine noodles and caramel: Immediately pour the hot caramel over the cooked noodles. Using tongs or two forks, gently toss until the noodles are fully coated and glossy. Let cool.
- Add the egg mixture: In a separate bowl, whisk together eggs, salt, black pepper and cinnamon (if using). Pour over the caramel-coated noodles and toss thoroughly to combine.
- Bake the kugel: Transfer noodle mixture to the prepared pan. Spread evenly and press down gently. Bake uncovered for 1 hour, until the top is a rich golden brown and slightly crisp. Or…
- Bake the kugel overnight: Transfer noodle mixture to the prepared pan. Spread evenly and press down gently. Bake at 350°F (175°C) for 30 minutes, then lower to 210°F (100°C) and continue baking for 6–8 hours, covered loosely with foil. For a crispier top, uncover for the last 30 minutes of baking, or broil briefly at the end — but watch closely!
- Let the kugel rest in the pan for 10–15 minutes before slicing. Serve warm or at room temperature, ideally with pickles.
Notes
- My caramel ratio leans a little less sweet than some traditional recipes, which lets the pepper shine.
- This recipe uses 12 oz (340 g) noodles, a more home-friendly yield. Most classic recipes scale up to 1 lb (450 g) for a crowd, but this one’s perfect for sharing at your own table.
- You’ll need a 9-inch round baking pan (2-3 inches deep) or 8×8-inch square pan.
- Prep Time: 30 minutes
- Cook Time: 1-8 hours
- Category: Dinner
- Method: Baking
- Cuisine: Israeli
Can this be made savory instead of sweet?
This dish is sweet and savory by nature, but we’re sure you’ll like the look of something on this list!