“The difference between a cow and a bean is a bean can begin an adventure.” – Stephen Sondheim
As a child, I was so dazzled by the diverse flavors and hues of jelly beans that I begged my mother to help me dress as a bag of ’em for Halloween. To achieve this effect, she wrapped me in flammable diaphanous white tulle into which she stuffed no fewer than 10 fully inflated multicolored balloons. Miraculously, I survived trick-or-treating despite the ambient candle flames and sharp branches and lived to tell the tale. I look upon this anecdote even more fondly now that I know Jewish origins of this iconic sweet treat.
Given the Jewish history of Peeps, Tootsie Rolls and Bazooka gum, I shouldn’t have been surprised that another classic confection has Jewish roots. But such is also the delicious case with jelly beans, and specifically, the American bean of choice: Jelly Belly.
Now, technically Jelly Belly was not the first company to bring jelly beans to the U.S. market. That honor goes to Schrafft Candy, which in 1861 began selling beans, launching an advertising campaign encouraging people to gift them to soldiers fighting in the Civil War. The manufacturer that would evolve to become “Jelly Belly” was another nineteenth-century confectioner known as Goelitz Candy Company.
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Founded in 1869 by German immigrant Gustav Goelitz alongside his brothers George and Albert, the Goelitz Candy Co. initially focused on “mellowcreme” candies (one of the earliest inceptions of which was candy corn). In 1924, Goelitz’s son Herman relocated to Oakland, California to start his own candy business, and by the 1960s, his company had expanded its product line to include jells (think: Passover fruit jelly slices) and jelly beans. One such offering was known as the “mini jelly bean,” a smaller version of the regular-size bean that boasted a similar hard shell and intense flavor. One of the earliest fans of this “mini jelly bean” was then-candidate for governor, Ronald Reagan (more on that later).
Even with such well-heeled followers, the jelly bean might never have become what it is today if not for David Klein, another Jewish California candy-maker. Klein started his career as a barrister, then pivoted to bonbons, launching the Garvey Nut & Candy distribution company in 1976. After developing a scheme to develop a new iteration of the classic jelly bean (with vibrant new flavors), Klein partnered with Herman Rowland (grandson of Herman Goelitz), then leader of Goelitz Candy Company to assist in the production of this “Jelly Belly jelly bean.” The name was designed to pay homage to blue musician Lead Belly.
Klein first sold his new beans (in flavors that included root beer, licorice, very cherry, tangerine, green apple and cream soda) at Fosselman’s Ice Cream in Alhambra, California. Customers were initially put off by the high price (approximately $2 per pound) but positive press coverage significantly helped sales. Over the next four years, Klein and the Goelitz Candy Co. launched additional innovative flavors, increasing the popularity of Jelly Belly. In 1980, however, Klein sold the “Jelly Belly” trademark to Rowland for roughly five million dollars. In 2001, Goelitz Candy Co. changed its name to Jelly Belly Candy Company. And Klein? He continues to make candy under his “Candyman Kitchens” company in Florida, and still considers himself the inventor of Jelly Belly, despite being sued in 2022 by Jelly Belly for allegedly falsely claiming to be the founder of the company.
Now, just who exactly can claim majority credit for the jelly bean may be a matter of, well, counting beans. But what is certain is their appeal extends to all levels of American society. As previously mentioned, perhaps the most famous person with a penchant for jelly beans was 1970s POTUS Ronald Reagan. During the California gubernatorial race, the actor-turned-politician (and avid pipe-smoker) swapped tobacco for jelly beans to help him kick his addiction to the former. Jelly Belly (then still known as the Herman Boelitz Candy Company) caught wind of Reagan’s strategy and, after the election, fueled the new governor’s habit with regular shipments. The sweet supply chain continued when Reagan became President, with some sources alleging the commander-in-chief received 720 bags every single month. There was even a special convoy of red, white and blue beans for Reagan’s inauguration, as well as a limited edition blueberry flavor. His two-term presidency was literally littered with jelly beans: They were in cabinet meetings, in the Oval Office and even on Air Force One.
“You can tell a lot about a fellow’s character,” Regan quipped, “by whether he picks out all of one color or just grabs a handful.”
Today, Jelly Belly continues to capture the hearts and stomachs of the American public with its line-up of standard and exotic flavors (mai tai, buttered popcorn, pomegranate). Although the company seems to have officially broken up with Klein, they do regularly offer special Hanukkah beans, which we like to think is a hat – er, yarmulke – tip to him.
