Finland, home of saunas, reindeer meat… and bagels?
Yes, if Johanna Nelson has anything to do with it. Founder and co-owner of Helsinki’s Yeastie Boi, Nelson is determined to secure bagels a permanent spot on the country’s gastronomic landscape – albeit with a distinctive Finnish twist.
On a blustery Saturday in late September, I stepped into a pocket sidestreet of Finland’s capital in search of Yeastie Boi’s second-story storefront. The fall sun was bright enough that one customer was sitting outside enjoying a cup of coffee – no doubt, one of many they would consume throughout the day, as supposedly Finns drink more joe than anyone else in the world. Inside, however, the vibe definitely shifts from slow-drip matutinal chill to pre-prandial zeal, for the bagel aperitif of choice at Yeastie Boi is beer. And that’s exactly how Nelson, her team and, clearly, the hometown Finnish crowd likes it.
While Yeastie Boi attends to tradition with regards to bagel form (all boast that requisite “chew” and come in standard varieties (plain, poppyseed, sesame, everything), the serving style is distinctly different.
Nelson’s roots as a trained chef are apparent in what can best be described as the accessible artistry of Yeastie Boi’s bagels, which are vehicles for multi-layered, vibrant gustatory experiences, far beyond a simple schmear, butter or jelly — though they are available. Instead, there’s an array of textured sandwiches with foraged and fermented ingredients from the land and sea, like kimchi, smoked fish and meats, cheeses, etc.
See, for example, the “Los Pollos Hermanos,” a bold concoction of which Walter White would definitely approve, comprising a plain bagel stacked with fried chicken, slaw, cheddar, jalapeno peppers and infused mayo, coriander and chives. I also enjoyed sweet and spicy “The Devil’s Sting,” a piquant collaboration of gooey mozzarella, nduja spread, salami and fennel salad atop a chili flake bagel drizzled with hot honey.
Beer pairings are strongly encouraged to the point of explicitly written out by each menu item, and bagels are paired with side dishes such as halloumi fries and sauerkraut. Through such menu design Nelson effectively transforms traditional bagel culture by upgrading it to a bar food to fuel conversation and nocturnal romps at subsequent locations to be determined. Yeastie Boi is open mid-morning through late night, boasting an aesthetic that is simultaneously gritty urban and bohemian, with a clientele to match. Along with a mural, the walls are filled with works by local artists and seating/lounging options include leather couches alongside industrial four-top tables.
Yet, Yeastie Boi – like virtually all of Finland – is “family-friendly,” and I spotted at least two strollers in the crowded dining room. The presence of children is not a deterrent for loud conversations and the occasional second (or third) round of lagers.
And that perfect pun of a name?
“We wanted to express in the name that it’s bagels and beers without saying it – both are yeasty and in Finnish beer is sometimes in slang called “hiiva,” which means yeast. I [also] love a play on words and borrowing from pop culture, so from Beastie Boys… Yeastie boi. All three members of [the] band have a Jewish background so it seemed fitting.”
Nelson’s efforts to create a niche bagel space, not to mention one of the only bagel shops in the country, have not gone unnoticed. Recently, Yeastie Boi won for the Best Restaurant in Finland at the 2023 Bartenders’ Choice Awards. So when in Helsinki, yes, try the smoked salmon, the rye bread, the coffee – but also “finnish” your bagel. You won’t regret it.
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